If cities had personalities, Cochin would be that effortlessly charming raconteur at a dinner party—one who has seen it all, from colonial conquests to spice-laden trade routes, yet remains delightfully humble. Tucked along Kerala’s Malabar Coast, this port city is a heady cocktail of cultures, where Chinese fishing nets silhouette against fiery sunsets, centuries-old synagogues rub shoulders with vibrant cafes and the aroma of freshly ground pepper mingles with the salty sea breeze.

As part of the Kerala Travel Mart last year, we (The Statesman) embarked on a tour of Fort Kochi, guided by Rajesh PK, alongside fellow media professionals.

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The colonial chessboard 

Between the 15th and 18th centuries, European powers—Spain, Portugal, France, Holland and England—were locked in an unrelenting struggle for dominance, both on land and at sea. The Dutch, having freed themselves from Spanish rule in the 16th century, ventured to the East Indies between 1595 and 1598. Soon after, the British East India Company was established in 1600 under a royal charter from Queen Elizabeth I, followed by the Dutch East India Company in 1602.

Cochin found itself at the heart of this colonial contest. The Portuguese, who had fortified their stronghold in the city, fiercely resisted Dutch advances. However, after successive attacks in 1662 and 1663, the town fell to the Dutch. Under their rule, Cochin saw the construction of expansive warehouses and bungalows, including the iconic Bolgatty Palace (1744), which later became the British Residency. In 1806, the British strategically demolished several Dutch warehouses. Beyond their architectural contributions, the Dutch conducted an extensive survey of Kerala’s coastline, including Cochin. Their meticulously detailed maps—some dating back to 1660, 1677 and 1691—illustrate the fortifications, streets, canals and residential quarters of the time. These historic drawings, preserved in the Dutch Archival Library in the Netherlands, continue to offer invaluable insights into Cochin’s colonial past.

Mattancherry Palace Museum  

One of Cochin’s most fascinating historical landmarks is the Mattancherry Palace, originally built by the Portuguese in 1555 and presented to Vira Kerala Varma as compensation for their destruction of a nearby temple. The Dutch later undertook significant renovations in 1665, earning the structure its popular moniker, the “Dutch Palace”.

This two-storied quadrangular palace, a blend of European and indigenous architectural styles, houses a museum that showcases Kerala’s regal past. Its grand halls and central courtyard enshrine the royal deity, Pazhayannur Bhagavathi, while additional temples dedicated to Lord Krishna and Lord Shiva add to its spiritual significance.

The true glory of Mattancherry Palace lies in its exquisite mural paintings, spanning approximately 300 square metres. These vibrant artworks, created in three phases, depict scenes from the Ramayana and legends of Shiva, Vishnu, Krishna and Durga. Complemented by intricate wood carvings, these murals offer a window into Kerala’s artistic and cultural heritage. The museum’s exhibits include oil portraits of Cochin’s former rulers, royal palanquins, ceremonial dresses, weapons and ornate umbrellas—each piece narrating a fragment of the region’s storied past.

Cochin Paradesi Synagogue  

The Cochin Paradesi Synagogue, standing for over 450 years, is the oldest in the Commonwealth. Built in 1568, it was established to serve a thriving Jewish community in Cochin, many of whom had fled persecution in Europe.

Also known as the Cochin Jewish Synagogue or the Mattancherry Synagogue, it is most commonly referred to as the Paradesi Synagogue. The name Paradesi, meaning “foreigner”, reflects its origins, as it was built by Sephardic (Portuguese-speaking) Jews.

At its peak, the Jewish community in Cochin numbered around 2,000, with the Paradesi Synagogue at the heart of their religious and social life. It was not just a place of worship but a symbol of identity, inspiring even visiting Jewish couples to marry within its historic walls. The last grand celebration was its 450th anniversary in December 2018, when more than 150 members of the community traveled from Israel, the United States, Canada, Australia and England. For many, it was a homecoming across generations—turning Jew Town into a vibrant hub of prayer, song and reunion.

The synagogue shares a wall with the Mattancherry Hindu temple—a rare architectural and cultural coexistence unique to Kerala. During the Jewish New Year, the Torah scrolls are carried around the courtyard in celebration.

Inside the Synagogue: The structure follows Sephardic customs, with the synagogue facing east toward Jerusalem. As you step into the prayer hall, the two brass pillars at the entrance represent the pillars of Solomon’s Temple. At the centre is the Bimah, a raised pulpit from which the Hazzan (prayer leader) conducts services, particularly evening prayers. At the far end stands the Ark (Hekhal), which houses the Torah scrolls. The Ark bears the Hebrew words Keter Tora— “The Crown of the Law”. The Torah scrolls are encased in silver and crowned with gold, some of which were gifted by the Maharaja of Cochin. Portions of the Torah are read every Sabbath and during Jewish festivals, beginning with Beresheet (Genesis) on the Jewish New Year and culminating in the grand celebration of the Torah during the Feast of Tabernacles.

Above, Belgian silver chandeliers illuminate the hall, while at its centre, the Tamid lamp—a perpetual light present in every Jewish synagogue since the days of Solomon—burns brightly. Beneath your feet, hand-painted blue willow-patterned tiles from 18th-century Canton, China, form a stunning mosaic. Each of the 1,100 tiles, painted with vegetable dye before commercial paints existed, is unique—no two are alike. Turn around, and you’ll notice the upper gallery, home to a second Bimah. Unlike many synagogues, Cochin’s upper pulpit honours women, positioning them closest to the prayers during special occasions like the Sabbath and festivals.

The Clock Tower: Built in 1760 by the Jewish businessman Ezekiel Rahabi, the Clock Tower still chimes every hour. Standing 45 feet tall, its four clock faces display numerals in Hebrew, Malayalam and Latin—serving the Maharaja, the Jewish community, local residents and traders alike. The fourth side remains blank, its reason lost to time.

The Copper Plate: Dating back to 1000 CE, the Copper Plates were bestowed upon Jewish leader Joseph Rabban by Kerala emperor Cheraman Perumal. This royal grant conferred 72 proprietary rights, elevating the Jewish settlers to a status equivalent to the noble Nairs of Malabar.

Chinese Fishing Nets

The Chinese fishing nets, locally known as cheena vala in Malayalam, are iconic fixtures along the shores of Fort Kochi, Kerala. These expansive, cantilevered nets are believed to have been introduced between 1350 and 1450 by Chinese explorers, possibly during the visits of Admiral Zheng He.

Fisherman Geo explains the mechanism involving these fishing nets. Standing approximately 10 metres tall, each installation comprises a cantilevered structure made of teak wood and bamboo poles, supporting a net that spans about 20 metres over the water. The operation involves a team of up to six fishermen who utilise large stones, each around 30 centimetres in diameter, as counterweights. These stones are suspended from ropes of varying lengths, allowing the net to be lowered into the sea and raised with minimal effort. After remaining submerged for a few minutes, the net is hoisted, typically yielding a modest catch of fish and crustaceans.

St Francis Church

St Francis Church, located in Fort Kochi, Kerala, is renowned as one of the oldest European churches in India, with its origins tracing back to 1503. Built by Portuguese Franciscan friars who accompanied explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral, the church was initially constructed using wood and dedicated to St Bartholomew. By 1516, it was reconstructed in stone, reflecting the evolving architectural practices of the time.

The church’s history mirrors the colonial dynamics of the region. Following the Portuguese era, the Dutch seized Cochin in 1663, converting St Francis Church into a government church and reconditioning it for their use. Despite these transitions, the church remained intact, unlike many other structures that were demolished during successive occupations.

A significant historical event associated with St Francis Church is its connection to Vasco da Gama, the famed Portuguese explorer. After his death in Cochin in 1524 during his third voyage to India, da Gama was initially interred in this church. His remains were later transported to Lisbon, but the original burial site within the church continues to be a point of interest for visitors.

(Photographs by the writer)